How to spray paint just about anything including wood, plastic and metal

Want to make over secondhand furniture, give cabinet hardware a new finish or revive an old lamp? The answer is probably two words: spray paint. This DIYer’s secret weapon is affordable, versatile and easy to use — if you know how. Here’s how to get a flawless finish every time.

One of the best parts of spray painting is how little equipment you need to do a good job.

Experts say you’ll need three different coats: spray primer, spray paint in whatever color and finish you’ve chosen, and spray-on sealer. You will also need sanding blocks, sanding sheets, or a wire brush depending on the material you’re spray painting, and tack cloth.

When it comes to choosing a paint, the finish options can seem overwhelming. But there are some general pointers to help you decide. “High-gloss spray paints provide a slick surface that is easily cleaned and provides the best color protection, especially when the item painted is left outside,” says Dennis Fiorilli, director of product excellence at Sherwin Williams. The drawback: High-gloss or metallic will more easily show imperfections. A matte or textured finish, on the other hand, will camouflage flaws, but isn’t as easy to clean, or as resistant to stains and sun damage.

In many cases, a satin finish — which falls between matte and glossy — is a safe bet, says MinChan Koo, associate brand manager for spray paint company Krylon.

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Spray-painting outside or in a garage with the doors open is ideal. If that’s not possible, there are ways to make an indoor space work.

“The most important thing is creating a well-ventilated area,” says Amanda Conley, the blogger behind Determined DIY. “Air flow helps with dry time and so you don’t breathe in [fumes].” Before you do anything else, open windows and doors, and turn on a fan. And, as Fiorilli stresses, spray paint is flammable, so this is not the time to light a cigarette or candle.

Whether outside or in, you’ll want to protect the surface beneath your project. Gena Jaffe, a popular DIYer on Instagram, saves flattened delivery boxes to reuse as floor-covering, though a regular drop cloth would work, too. If you’re spraying indoors, Shereen Farooq, the DIYer behind Instagram account @pretty.and.functional, suggests investing in a spray tent — a collapsible, lightweight structure that will protect your walls and furniture.

Just like your floors, you need to protect yourself. Bob Glass, merchant and paint specialist at Home Depot, recommends “using latex gloves, eye protection, protective clothing, and face protection, such as a disposable respirator when spray painting.”

Heavy-duty respirator masks are a good reusable option if you’re planning multiple projects, but Jaffe says sturdy disposable masks, such as N95s, can work, too. She recommends wearing clear goggles for eye protection, especially while sanding.

Paint will adhere best to surfaces that Fiorilli describes as, “clean, dull and dry.” Whether you’re painting a plastic planter, a metal picture frame, or a piece of wood furniture, you’ll want to give it a thorough scrub first. Says Glass: “Remove all dirt, grease, oil, salt or chemical contaminants by washing the surface with a commercial detergent” or another suitable cleaner like good old dish soap. Then thoroughly rinse with water and let the piece completely dry.

Next, grab your sanding tools. Whether spray-painting something wood, metal or plastic, if you don’t sand first, experts say you risk your new paint color quickly chipping off.

On a piece of wood furniture, any old lacquer, stain or paint has to come off. For that kind of heavy sanding and stripping, says Glass, “you need coarse sandpaper measuring 40 to 60 grit.” Farooq says sanding blocks are easier to use for a project that requires extensive sanding, or for getting into smaller spaces (such as between the gaps on a ladder-back chair).

To sand metal items, Conley recommends using a wire brush. She takes one to her outdoor fire pit every year, scraping off any old flakes of paint and rust, before applying its annual coat of new paint. She advises getting rid of as much of the rust as possible, otherwise it could show through. A good primer application will help prevent this, too, Conley notes.

Sanding is also important when painting plastic or glass, but for a different reason. Instead of sanding to create a smooth surface, you’ll want to sand to scuff up these items so the paint has something to grab on to. “Start with a 120-grit for light removal, and finish with a 220-grit for increased smoothness,” Koo says.

Finally, go over your piece — no matter what it’s made of — with a tack cloth, a special type of cloth treated with a tacky material (hence the name) that will help remove any remaining particles left behind from sanding.

Priming is nonnegotiable, especially if your sanding job was lackluster, to ensure the longevity of the paint. For rusty metal items, Conley and Glass both advise priming with Rust-Oleum brand primer so the old rust doesn’t peek through. Stain-blocking primers, such as one made by Zinsser, says Fiorilli, are great for covering up other imperfections, such as dark knots in a wood surface.

You’ll want to apply a thin, even coat. Glass suggests starting by vigorously shaking the can of primer for “one minute after the mixing ball begins to rattle.” Then, “Hold the can upright 10 to 16 inches from the surface and spray in a steady back-and forth motion, slightly overlapping each stroke.”

The primer must be totally dry before moving on to painting. “The primer is going to appear like it dried right away, but give it an hour,” Farooq says.

Once you’re sure it’s dry, lightly sand the primed surface. Glass recommends using “a super fine sandpaper with 360 to 600 grit.” In a pinch, Farooq says you can also gently sand with a brown paper bag.

Before spray-painting your piece, Fiorilli suggests “spraying onto a scrap piece of cardboard or paper to get a feel for how the can sprays.” Once you have the hang of it, apply a thin, even coat of your paint, employing the same back-and-forth motion that you used with the primer. Koo reiterates that “thin coats” are the key.

One last bit of advice from Glass: “Keep the can the same distance from the surface during the duration of paint application.” (Applying too much paint to one spot can cause it to build up and more easily chip off later.)

You’ll likely need at least two coats of spray paint for an even finish. Remember to let each coat fully dry before applying the next one.

Sealing with a spray-on clear coat such as Krylon Acrylic Clear Finish or Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Spray Paint is particularly important for protecting glass and metal pieces, or anything that is going to be handled a lot.

Simply apply your sealer with the same technique you used for your primer and paint. Sealing, Koo notes, can also be a fix for paint-choice remorse: “If you don’t love the sheen you selected at first, you can always consider applying another clear coat with your desired sheen.” Satin to matte in a snap.

Hannah Holland is a news producer and freelance writer based in Brooklyn.

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